Journey Of Faith - Part 2: Of Beating Retreats And Bati

I gave Nagendra a tight hug and thanked him for what he does for the country. Because, the armed forces are often the last people one thinks of tucked away in the comforts of a Tier I metro. It’s their dedication and will to keep our borders safe that lets our country sleep without a worry. Nagendra was the star of the show at the beating retreat in Sadqi, Fazilka. The 6’5” man had the grit, the voice and the aura of a warrior, but was calm, docile and caring when he was among ‘his people.’ 

That’s when it occurred to me that the forces are driven by the faith of the people they protect. The connect with the masses is what keeps them going in spite of the difficulties. Take the evening ceremony for example. Over a hundred civilians gathered around the border to cheer our forces on. The beating retreat is a show of sass and strength. Each side displays their prowess by marching and calling the other out. Among loud cries of Vande Mataram and Bharat Mata Ki Jai, the jawaans march in style, with the legs being raised above the head and even touching the tip of the pheta (the headgear). Fazilka is among the only three locations in India you can witness border ceremonies (the other being Wagah and Firozpur). But, unlike Wagah where there’s more show and drama, this one is raw and unplugged. Emotions run high, there’s a concentrated shot of patriotism, but there’s rarely any disrespect for the other side. 

A late evening dash to Sri Ganga Nagar was on the cards, which marked our entry into Rajasthan. The roads disappeared entirely altogether, and so did light. This gave us the perfect setting to test out the ride, as well as those LED headlamps. With four passengers, luggage and camera equipment, the Tucson feels weighed down enough to ride flat. Over broken roads, it managed to sail past comfortably save for a little side-to-side rocking. The headlamps get a concentrated low beam, and the spread and throw leave very little to complain about. But, we did find ourselves switching to high beam every now and then. 

Sri Ganga Nagar itself has an interesting story. Named after the erstwhile Maharaja of Bikaner, Sri Ganga Singh, it is an example of how a barren desert can be converted into a flourishing trade hub by putting one’s belief into the power of water. The town was hit severely by famine at the turn of the 19th century, and was subsequently rescued by channelling the water from the Sutlej river. 

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A generous helping of pyaaz kachoris, jalebis and dhoklas had us ready to hit the road.  Oddly enough, I was looking forward to more food. The reason? We were heading to Bikaner which means some questionable amounts of Rajasthani delicacies were in order. The highway that connects the two places is almost arrow-straight for over 50kms. The NH62 appears freshly re-layered and the smooth tarmac only eggs you on to poke the 2.0-litre diesel a little. A little vertical bobbing and float aside, the Tucson does feel at home on the highways. Torque is accessible and comes very handy for that quick overtake. Go past Suratgarh and the roads begin to deteriorate a little, but never to the point where it gets annoying, though. 

We dumped our bags in the hotel, and immediately headed out for some late-afternoon lunch. The menu had the basics ticked – dal, bati, choorma, and gatte ki subzi. I’ve always been a food buff and exploring new cuisines is among my favourite things to do. I particularly like how local food is woven around the culture, weather and produce of the region. There’s trust in the meal not only to feed and nourish, but also to bring joy. This isn’t akin to the kind of faiths we’ve explored so far. But, it is that very faith in the food that’s made Bikaneri food a global delicacy. In case you’re wondering, yes, we are taking some bhujiya back home.