Journey Of Faith - Part 3: Of Two Forts and Nuclear Fusion

After the gastronomic overload at the Bikaner market, we had quite some time to spare. Junagarh Fort is a stone's throw away from where we were, so it became the obvious choice to kill some time. Now, unlike the big public park that you have to drive through to get to the fort, the surroundings of the place itself is questionably unkempt. 

Nonetheless, step inside and you're transported to the 15th century almost instantly. The ochre shade on the walls, the intricate carvings and the scale of the fort has to be seen to be believed.  What's its story of faith? Well, Junagarh was never captured (save for one day) by foreign invaders. Even today, the structure remains a big draw for tourists - the temple, the museum and the fort itself. 

I tucked myself in for the night, for the next day promised to be epic. We were heading to Pokhran, home to Operation Smiling Buddha and Operation Shakti. It was this very town that put India on the world map, establishing it as a nuclear power. A relaxed 8 am start from Bikaner meant we were in Pokhran by 1 pm. The NH15 that connects the two is under construction for the most part, which manages to test your patience and the car's resilience. 

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There’s also more sand around than you would imagine, and strong gusts of wind wraps you up in clouds of it. This is where we appreciated the Clean Air tech the Tucson comes bundled with. In spite of the scenery outside being dusty and a tan-inducing 43°C, the cabin was set at a cool 21.5°C with the vents blowing clean and cold air. We also clocked the 1000km mark on our way to Pokhran, and had no hiccups to speak of. The big Hyundai is proving to be a comfortable cruiser as the days go by. 

While Google will tell you where the test site is, what it won't tell you is that the Army won't let you go anywhere near it. Nonetheless, that doesn't overshadow the history of the place. Pokhran was the place of choice for India to display its nuclear might. While Pokhran I employed a single fission explosive, Pokhran II tested four fission and one fusion bomb. The Government trusted the know-how and the capability of Indian scientists, choosing to develop nuclear tech instead of buying them from other nuclear countries. It also paved the way for using nuclear energy as an alternate source of power. As of today, it's the fourth largest source for India, courtesy the 21 nuclear reactors installed across 7 sites. This only goes to show how small leaps of faith at the right moment can have large scale effects down the line. 

Pokhran done with, we barrelled towards Jaisalmer soon after and checked into our hotel for the night. The morning involved catching the sunrise at the Jaisalmer Fort, which is a beautiful view to begin the day with. That said, I do wish the fort and its surroundings were kept cleaner. For a structure that's declared a UNESCO heritage site, it could've (and should've) been kept well. Built by Maharaja Rawal Jaisal in 1156 A.D., the Fort overlooks the city. Interestingly, Jaisalmer was never meant to be the capital of the Rawal empire. Folklore says the Maharaja met a sage on the Trikuta rocks, who prophesied that the King shall establish his kingdom there. Subsequently, the mud fort was built and named after the Maharaja. 

Just like Junagarh, the town of Jaisalmer soldiers on practically solely due to the draw of the fort. Interesting how faith in a 12th century structure lets you sail through the 21st, no? 

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